The age of activewear? 

Sportswear- Workout gear, Activewear. Does anyone else remember that song from old YouTube, 'Chilling in My Active Wear'? Wait, Ellie Golding features on it? Multiverse of madness, am I right? If you have Instagram or TikTok, it might seem like activewear is the fashion trend. Everyone and their mom has started an activewear brand! Where have all these activewear brands come from? Okay, well, because of my algorithm, I have been browsing and buying active wear,  because that's how algorithms work- But I mean, in general, it isn't just my algorithm. 

In the next 5 years, sportswear is estimated to outgrow all other retail sectors- So yeah, you can't get away from active wear; Like a bad smell, cuz you're sweating it. Before I make any more amazing jokes, I guess I should introduce myself; My name is Tara Mooknee,  and this is the only channel on YouTube where all videos are written and produced by a cow. (Mooo!)  She couldn't be in the video today, because she's actually at the gym getting jacked; So don't mess with her, because she's a heffer! But, if you like and subscribe, she might appear in the next one! [Music] Sportswear and activewear as a fashion.

Casuals, bloke-core & footie fits

Is no new thing, but it seems to be having its moment. I love the incorporation of football kits on the runway- Like Balenciaga's 2020 Paris  Fashion Week Runway- Gimme- gimme! Not only is it cute and comfy, but it's a great way to make a  political statement! In 2021, when Martine Rose collaborated with Nike and dressed the US  Women's team in gender-free suiting, and created the iconic reversible design for England's  2021 Euros kit called The Lost Lionesses, inspired by the story of the unofficial England women's team, which played in the 19 71 World Cup. Only a year after women's football was unbanned in the UK, it was banned for 50 years.

Then in 2022, UK designer Hattie Crowther made a series of FIFA corsets in protest of FIFA hosting the 2022 World Cup in Qatar; let's not forget that Stella McCartney designed Arsenal's away kit in 2022, and just recently, in the summer of 2023! Football-themed fits aren't only appearing on the runway and in designer collections, it's infiltrated the general population with subcultures like casual culture, and trends like bloke-core. A quick explanation of  'casual culture.

It's a subculture that emerged in the UK in the 70s/80s as a subsection of football culture, that is seen as a manifestation of hooliganism, where hooligans wore expensive designer clothes known as clobber, to avoid police attention and to intimidate rivals.  It's a whole thing that could be a video all on its own; But I do want to say, isn't that so ironic? Because in the past few years, there's been discourse about how middle-class people- you know,  hipsters- adopt the working-class aesthetic, but then these guys were doing the opposite,  they were LARPing as rich people. 

Fashion is fascinating, isn't it? Bloke-core is a  more recent term- and yes, it is real, coined by TikTok user Brandon Huntley from North  Carolina. Like with most TikTok trends, it started as a joke and then became a real trend. "Oh my gosh, I love your West Village DePop scammer bloke-core fit- Yes, girl!" He was poking fun at the British slang 'bloke', which is like dude, or fella, or bro. Think of a  vintage football jersey, blue jeans, and Adidas sambas. I love the internet! So it isn't just footy that's taken off; What's even.

Back to BASIC 

More peculiar is that basic activewear is having its moment. I don't mean that as a pejorative, like- ew, it's basic- as in, they're wardrobe basics! Which makes sense in light of the lockdown, and how it's changed our lifestyles. We're wearing less makeup, we're more health conscious, and comfort is key. In 2020 data collected by  List, the search term 'sustainable active wear' increased by 151% compared to 2019; And holy moly guacamole- Which I can't eat, because I'm allergic to avocados; I know, I'm relatable. There are so many activewear brands popping up on Instagram, so many.

And though many of them are self-proclaimed 'sustainable brands', how sustainable is this trend? But I'll get to that in a minute. I want to start with the positives; That was so dramatic, like- I want to start with the positives! I've been rewatching Ugly Betty and, you know Amanda, she's always just like- I think that's why  I'm doing that. Anyway, before I come in as a commentary YouTuber Grinch, ruining everyone's fun, let me just say, unlike classically Abby, I don't prescribe to the notion that leggings are slitty; The fact that the girlies are embracing leggings, sweatshirts, and UGGs, is a testament to how comfy can be cute!

Secondly, with demand comes more size options and price points to shop from; And also, without encouraging consumption too much, I will say that if you want to start exercising, I did find that treating myself to a cute activewear set motivated me to go to classes. It gives you that confidence boost, you know? Utility, but make it fashionable, because going to the gym can be intimidating- trust me, I know! I struggle to lift a can of beans! Unlike the cow, I do find the gym intimidating.

Activewear's Link to lifestyle & body trends 

It's time to be a commentary YouTuber Grinch now! To moan- All we do is complain! Wa- wa- wa- wa! We find the negative in everything! Oh,  you got a new job? Congrats, but you're forced to work under capitalism, and I don't dream of labor! Oh, you had a baby? Babies are bad for global warming! Do you want to throw a divorce party? Well, what about the workers who made the 'I recently got divorced' cups, huh? Anyway, on a  serious note, I have noticed some issues with the inundation of activewear brands. I like exercise,  I think encouraging exercise is good! 

Not for body-ideal reasons, no- no-, but for physical and mental health. Anyone of any shape, size, or ability, should be able to enjoy the endorphins of physical activity without fear of judgment. As I said in my video on women's football, you shouldn't have to be good at something to enjoy it; You don't have to master your hobbies, just have fun! If you want to go to a yoga class, don't worry about losing your balance, or not being able to stretch like Slender Man! I have dreadful balance, but I do it because, you know,  it clears my head and helps with my breathing. 

So now, I've spent .5 seconds talking about the positives; The problem I have with a lot of the marketing surrounding these activewear brands is that a very specific body type and lifestyle is promoted. There's nothing wrong with having a  flexible schedule where you can fit an iced coffee and pilates into your morning routine. However, I  don't know about you, but I'm getting tired of the whole 'romanticize your life', it-girl, that girl trend being shoved in my face! And this is coming from someone who does have a flexible schedule,  so if this content is getting on my nerves and making me feel inadequate, imagine what it's like for someone who works a 9-to-5, has to come home, clean the house, maybe even look after kids! It's an influencer-specific lifestyle. 

Also, despite what I said earlier about looking cute as a form of motivation- yes, I stand by that- however, news flash, exercise makes you sweaty. But a lot of influencer active wear content would make you believe otherwise! Your fake tan gets streaky and uneven, your makeup rubs off, and you might look like a drowned rat at the end of your workout!  It might trigger body image issues, so you might prefer wearing a baggy t-shirt. Don't let  Instagram fool you into thinking that this isn't normal. I'm not trying to shame people who take cute active-wear pics, I'm just trying to validate that you might be made to feel inadequate by this content. You can sprinkle in a few pictures of postpartum bodies on your feed, but if the vast majority of your marketing content is showing a specific body type, then you're just reinforcing the notion that gym, palates, and having an active lifestyle in general, looks a specific way and is only achievable by a specific type of body type.

Environmental/sustainability issues 

Okay, it is now later, I had to go to pottery class, but I'm back! Now, let's get on to the sustainability aspect- or lack thereof. A lot of activewear brands market themselves as sustainable; Some are genuinely making an effort to follow through on this, while others are merely greenwashing. What I will say is that, because activewear is seen as a wardrobe essential, there can be a danger of over-consumption; And listen, I get it, it's tempting to get stuff in every color. Whenever Tala does a new drop, I have to put myself in online shopping jail to avoid buying more stuff, because how much activewear do you need? 

I understand that it ages quicker than other items in your wardrobe, because you need to wash them more, and this is twofold when you're exercising regularly; But any consumption of activewear has an environmental impact. Not to make you feel bad- I buy stuff! This is because it's made with materials like polyester, nylon, and spandex, that benefit your workout; Like being lightweight, stretchy, sweat-wicking, and quick-drying. However, these materials are non-biodegradable and require huge amounts of energy and water to produce. 

They shed microplastics when you wash them, and then the water contaminates the oceans and food chains, marine life, and all that good stuff. Well, what about sustainable fabrics? Many brands are now opting for recycled polyester- ie, plastic made into polyester; It's recycled, but is it recyclable? I'm sure you've seen ads like, 'This is made out of plastic bottles', and many big brands have pledged to replace all virgin polyester with recycled polyester, which is cool and all, but here's the catch- Once the plastic is made into polyester, it can't be recycled again; So plastics are still involved. 

Also, isn't it funny that you've got these major corporations saying, in 500 years we're going to move exclusively to virgin polyester- meanwhile, there are independent brands that are already doing that- like Tala- who use exclusively upcycled and recycled materials. In fairness to Adidas, they have introduced a line of footwear that is 100% recyclable, so that's good. The good news is that there are other solutions; Making active wear extra durable by removing seams helps; Using natural fibers like Tencel, hemp, and bamboo, which even have natural antibiotic properties. But like with everything, there's a catch. 

These textiles still use up a lot of water and land, and hemp is expensive to grow, with the financial burden of growing it often falling on the farmers. But if there's one thing I've learned in researching for this video, it's that there is no perfect foolproof solution to this issue. Any form of consumption has an environmental impact, and that's the reality. If you're familiar with fast fashion discourse, I'm sure you're familiar with the notion that the most sustainable thing to do is to just not consume at all, which- Yeah, but you know, we live in a society and all that. If you buy new, do your research; Or, buying secondhand is an option! And you might scoff at that, secondhand activewear, but the market for secondhand activewear is growing. 

Today, workout clothes and athleisure are some of the most popular categories to shop on ThredUp, and brands like LuluLemon and Nike are hot commodities. As the stigma around secondhand fades, many people have turned to thrift for all their wardrobe needs, even their sports bras. I mean, I don't see the problem, it's not like it's someone's old thong. But, in conclusion, everything you do destroys the planet. Yes, you specifically, you individually, you alone are responsible for climate change. I'm kidding, I jest. I'm- I'm just having a jape! But yeah, it's uh, something to think about. It's so easy to get entranced by visually appealing advertising and feel like you need to buy something, especially when things are marketed as essentials. 

I'd say, if you're thinking of making a purchase, have a cooling-off period, and check out reviews to see if they're worth the hype. I won't name names, but there's a brand that I cannot get away from, and I did order something from them. But I should have listened to the reviews saying that their sizing is way small, because when I ordered a pair of leggings from them- in my usual size, it felt like, you know when you're trying to stuff a sausage... I mean, I don't do that, cuz I'm not a butcher, but you know what I mean- that's what it felt like, trying to put my legs in those leggings! And also, when you look at the comments on their Instagram, there are so many complaints from customers. To summarize, do your research! Oh, and if you're buying running shoes, do a gate analysis! 

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